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Archived Articles
Le Rue des Grands Augustins Part 2
February 11, 2009
To me, it's Paris' restaurant row. La rue des Grands Augustins
in the sixth arrondissement in Paris hosts more good dining
spots in a few short blocks than many cities in the world can boast
in multiple square miles. Just a few steps from la Seine
(the river in Paris), this slice of gourmet heaven is also a visual
treat with its well-preserved 16th and 17th century architecture.
On
the south end of the street is Mariage frères, a salon
de thé (tea salon) and boutique.* It's good for lunch
during the week or afternoon tea, but my favorite Mariage Frères
offering is their Saturday
or Sunday brunch.
A few steps away from Mariage frères is one Michelin-starred
Jacques Cagna with its more rustic sister restaurant, La
Rôtisserie d'en face, just around the corner on the rue
Christine.** The farm-raised roast chicken with old-style mashed
potatoes at La Rôtisserie d'en face is not to be missed.
Just down from Jacques Cagna is the two Michelin-starred
Le Relais Louis XIII.*** Ensconced in an elegantly updated
16th century building with exposed wooden beams and subdued lighting,
this restaurant oozes history and ambiance as well as excellent
cuisine.
On the façade outside reads the following:
"Ici, le jeune Louis XIII fut intronisé, une heure
après la mort de son père Henri IV."
"Here the young Louis XIII proclaimed king, one hour after the
death of his father Henri IV."****
If
you don't get sidetracked by the history of this endroit (place),
you might be ébloui (dazzled) by one of their specialties,
the lobster and foie gras ravioli with a mushroom cream sauce. It
is one of the best dishes I have ever had in France.
As you approach the Seine, you have the rather mod Ze Kitchen Galerie
and the modern Les Bouquinistes on your left.***** Both are
worth a culinary stop. Finally, on your right as you reach the Quai
des Grands Augustins along the river, is Lapérouse.******
Founded in 1766, this restaurant has seen its fortunes wax and wane,
but today it's back on many gourmet must-visit lists.
While some of these eateries are more pricey than others, you can't
go wrong at any of the dining establishments. And as much as it's
wonderful to wander all over la Capitale trying restaurants
of all kinds, you could stay within these few blocks and vous régaler
comme
un roi (treat yourself
like a king).
* Mariage
Frères Rive Gauche is located at 13, rue des Grands
Augustins. There are two other Mariage frères locations
in Paris.
** Jacques
Cagna is located at 14, rue des Grands Augustins. La Rôtisserie
d'en face is located at 2, rue Christine.
*** Le Relais Louis XIII can be found at 8, rue des Grands
Augustins.
**** Louis the XIII was nine when his father, King Henri IV, was assassinated
in 1610 by the Catholic Ravaillac. Louis' mother, Marie de Medicis,
became regent until young Louis came of age.
***** Ze Kitchen
Galerie can be found at 4, rue des Grands Augustins. Les
Bouquinistes is part of the Guy Savoy family of restaurants and
is located at 53, quai des Grands Augustins.
****** Lapérouse's
address is 51, quai des Grands Augustins.
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