January 14, 2009
Bread is to France what pasta is to Italy. Whether it's a baguette,
a ficelle (a really skinny baguette, literally a "string")
or a boule (round loaf), le pain (bread) is consumed
daily by les Français (French people). And it must
be said that some bread is definitely better than others. You can
find ho-hum baguettes and bread at many a boulangerie
(bakery) in Paris. But you can also find some of the finest bread
on the planet if you know where to look.
a recent culinary tour of Paris, our group went on a special behind-the-scenes
tour of the Poilâne bakery in the sixth arrondissement.
Poilâne, one of the best artisanal and most renowned Parisian
bakeries, has made bread-baking an art since 1932. Its claim to
fame is making its bread à l'ancienne, or in the old
style. The sourdough loaves are crafted with stone-ground flour,
sea salt from Brittany and wood-fired ovens, as well as a deep commitment
to quality and authenticity.
As we descended the stone steps to the bakery's cellar, we were
met by the aromas of baking goods and rising bread. The wood-burning
oven took up an entire wall and gave off a comfortable blanket of
heat. A young French man in shorts and a t-shirt (despite the 30
degree December weather outside) was taking a batch of luscious
chaussons aux pommes (apple turnovers) out of the oven.
We watched as he then began to prepare the next batch of sourdough
bread. After carefully measuring la farine (flour) and le
sel de Guérande (Brittany sea salt), he placed them in
the mixer with its bowl as large as a washtub. He flipped it on
and left the mixer to do its thing while he checked the tower of
loaves rising in baskets lined with linen. The process was fascinating
to watch. I was floored to realize that even though Poilâne
makes bread in copious quantities (they have 24 additional wood-burning
ovens outside Paris), every loaf is still formed and cared for by
From this original boulangerie on the rue du Cherche-Midi,
Poilâne today has another Paris boutique as well as a shop
in London. The company also supplies multiple Paris restaurants
with its pain de campagne (country loaves). When you see
"Pain Poilâne" on a menu, you are in for the real
Since the French still require their pain quotidien (daily
bread), I often see lines of customers flowing out the door of the
main shop. The efficient and courteous sales staff makes quick work
of the crowds, however, so having to faire la queue (wait
in line) never becomes too embêtant (annoying). You
can try one of the sample punitions (round, short-bread cookies)
while waiting or just browsing the shelves of fabulous breads is
a treat in itself.**
So I can keep the pleasure of Poilâne breads going even when
I am not in Paris, I have developed a habit of making a quick bread
stop on my way to Charles de Gaulle airport when headed back to
the U.S. All of the breads travel and freeze incredibly well.***
Musts on my take-out list are:
While the loaves are a little bulky in my carry-on, I am always thankful
to have some wonderful and real tastes of France when in the U.S.
Vive le pain français (long live French bread)!
- 1 pain de campagne, otherwise known as la miche Poilâne,
with its signature "P"
- 2 pains aux noix (walnut loaves-to die for when served
with ripe camembert or brie, preferably the raw milk kind)
- 2 pavés aux raisins (raisin loaves-a breakfast
favorite when toasted and spread with butter)
- 1 tarte aux pommes (Note this item does not travel well--I
enjoy the rustic pâtisserie with un café
crème, or coffee with milk, at the airport before boarding
* Poilâne is located at 8, rue du Cherche-Midi in
the 6th arrondissement. It is open Monday through Saturday
from 7:15am to 8:15pm.
Les punitions, or punishments, were given by the founder's
grandmother to her grandchildren. She would call the children to
come get their punishment and when she opened her hands, she had
a fistful of shortbread cookies instead!
*** Another trick is to order Poilâne breads to be delivered
Stateside via Fedex. The "Sampler" pack includes a large
rye loaf, two walnut loaves and a raisin loaf for approximately
41 euros. www.poilane.com
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